This water heater works great and is constructed very well. I'm using it inline with a large whole house natural gas water heater. The gas water heater is outside on one side of my house and it took forever for the tap water to get hot. My pipes are in the attic so it was easy to install this. I have this right next to shower pipes on a shelf and I get hot water instantly. Before this little water heater runs out of hot water, hot water from the large water heater will start filling it. Where I live, it costs 3x more to use electric over natural gas. If electric is cheaper for you, this water heater or a larger version may be all you need. I'm sure it would fit under large sink enclosures too. This one filled up with water it weighs about 100lbs.I like the traditional cylindrical water heater format. The parts are all standard water heater parts that you can pick up from any home improvement store. So, the only time I would have to contact Reliance is if the tank starts leaking.There are ports on top to optionally have the input and output ports on top. I used the top optional hot water port to add a second magnesium anode. I also replace the stock aluminum anode with a magnesium anode. I took regular 0.9 inch diameter magnesium water heater anode rods and cut them down to 10 inches with a reciprocating saw with bi-metal blade. I popped out or unscrew the plastic trim piece to fit a socket in there to undo the old one. I took it slowly using auto trim removers and large screwdrivers. I used an 18V Milwaukee impact wrench and everything came apart easily. I have a feeling a normal ratchet would take the port plugs or anode out easily too. I wrapped all the connections and plugs with teflon tape 6 times around. There are no leaks and I could position everything however orientation I wanted. I have ball valves on both side hot and cold water ports and brass street elbows to point the connections up. It's then connected to my piping with 24" flex corrugated copper connectors bent for heat trapping. The plastic drain is fine on this unit, but I replaced it with a dielectric nipple, 3/4 brass ball valve, 3/4 brass pipe to garden hose connector, and a brass garden hose cap. The ball valve allows for easier sediment removal and I've had the plastic valves get stuck open with sediment before. Inside, the top cold water inlet port has a pex dip tube as you would expect. The side hot water outlet has a curved pex tube that goes to the very top of the unit right under the hot water outlet port on top so you get the hottest water in the tank. Very smart! The tube moved easily to accommodate the second 0.9 inch anode.The water heater needs to be hard wired into your electrical system on it's own 20 amp circuit. The internal wiring is 12 gauge which is great. I don't have to worry much about it melting. Some other manufacturers may use smaller wiring which doesn't make sense. The temperature selector is under the front cover and it's easy to change the temperature. The heating element makes a quiet hissing type noise and is a basic $10 one.The water heater has a lot of insulation. I still bought a R-11 water heater blanket to cover it up. The three ports on top radiate heat. I covered them up with pieces of pipe insulation I had left over when I insulated my pipes. I also covered the top part of the T&P valve with 1" pipe insulation loosely placed.My unit was a little banged up when it arrived and the T&P valve was damaged. It leaked a lot. I ended up buying a standard one from the local Ace hardware store. There is no cushioning in the box. There is a little cylindrical plastic insert to center it in the shipping box and a couple of cardboard sheets for spacing. Amazon customer service was great! I am totally satisfied with this purchase.FYI, you can get a similar 10 gallon Kenmore from Orchard Supply (i.e. looks exactly the same as the 10 gallon version but with a Kenmore name plate) for about the same price or cheaper as this one. The 10 gallon version is bigger dimensionally but not by much. There are also larger versions still.